 |
| The Sree Padmanabhaswamy temple |
Did a version of this story
for the July issue of National Geographic Traveller India.
Rise early on a Sunday and join one of several free walking tours
conducted in Thiruvananthapuram (also known as Trivandrum). While Tree Walk explores the city’s tree wealth, Heritage
Walk delves into its social, cultural, and architectural history. I’ve
found these freewheeling walks to be a great way to discover facets and stories
of the city that would otherwise pass right by us. Both tours usually start at
7 a.m. on Sunday mornings and, over a couple of hours, cover one of the city’s
neighbourhoods. Though both walks typically happen at least once a month, they
tend to be more frequent from December to April. (Details on future walks on Facebook pages: Tree Walk www.facebook.com/groups/115646138581706;
Heritage Walk www.facebook.com/groups/heritagewalktvm)
No visit to Thiruvananthapuram is complete without admiring the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple, possibly the
world’s wealthiest religious institution, and exploring the busy Fort
neighbourhood around it. (Only Hindus allowed
in the temple, which also has a dress code: men go bare chested wearing dhotis
while women wear saris or dhotis wrapped over salwars. Dhotis are available on
rent; footwear, cameras, mobile phones, bags, etc. not allowed inside the
temple; )
A few hundred metres from the temple’s main entrance is the Kuthira Malika Palace, also called the
Puthen Malika, which houses a museum of artefacts belonging to Travancore’s
former royals. (No footwear allowed inside)
 |
| A Tree Walk at the Model School |
For a further dose of history, art, and greenery, head to the
tree-filled government museum complex that contains a couple of museums, a zoo,
and an art gallery. At the very least, visit the eye-catching Napier Museum with its mélange of
architectural styles and collection of archaeological and historical artefacts.
(Open 10 a.m.-4.45 p.m. Tuesdays and Thursday-Sunday;
1-4.45 p.m. on Wednesdays; closed Mondays; entry adults Rs 10; children Rs 5; no
cameras allowed.)
Next, stop at the nearby Sree
Chitra Art Gallery to see paintings by
Raja Ravi Varma and Nicholas and Svetoslav
Roerich. (Open 10 a.m.-4.45 p.m. Tuesdays
and Thursday-Sunday; 1-4.45 p.m. on Wednesdays; closed Mondays; entry adults Rs 20;
children Rs 10; no cameras allowed.)
For a booster shot of history,
head to the Keralam Museum of History and Heritage located opposite the
main museum complex. The museum,
which opened a few years ago, traces the region’s history and global connections
across the ages. Its collection includes Neolithic stone axes, a jar and bowl
used in Iron Age burials, Roman coins, and sculptures of bronze, wood, and
stone. (Open 10 a.m.-5.30
p.m.; closed Mondays. and public holidays; entry adults Rs 20; children Rs 10; foreigners Rs 200.)
Round off a heritage-filled day
with a mesmerising Kathakali or
Koodiyattom performance at Margi, a cultural organisation that promotes Kerala’s classical performing
art forms. Margi conducts regular Kathakali and Koodiyattom performances
through the year, but when planning a visit, it’s best to give them a call to
find out what’s on. (Tel: 0471-2478806/2473349/98470-99941.
